Harbinger

I got my painted one last week. Haven't pulled the old one yet but the quick comparison looked pretty good.

Awesome! I might get this before I get my transmission in after all! Thanks for all the effort dowser!

I upgraded from worn 235's to 31x10.5 Yoko Geolanders over the summer. Within about 50 miles of having them on however, my transmission died. They do look good on the new cragars though!

Yeah, lots of varying opinions. Seafoam really helped my motorcycle out last spring, and I have a can in my truck to stabilize the gas. Never done the vac/crankcase/exhaust though, so well, there ya go.

Either my desktop or my laptop. I keep to porn on my phone.

Heh, bike tires do add up when you start putting on the miles! Today I looked at my pathy woefully as I pulled my motorcycle out of the garage.

Ill concur on snap on ratchets being awesome. My roomies one will get 3-4 clicks in the same range as my decade old craftsman gets one click.

Well got my rear main seal this week. School is keeping me busy though as the temps have dropped down to an average of 30F. I'm looking for part time jobs too at the moment, so time is at a premium.

RC bikes are pretty cool! The problem a lot of people had with them was gearing them down far enough to translate to a viable bicycle speed. They can throw out a lot of power for sure!

The battery technologies are only improving. I converted a recumbent tricycle to electric two years ago now. The LiFePo4 batteries were getting good reviews at the time. I went with the slightly less safe LiPo batteries, building a 30a/h 44.4V battery out of 12 smaller packs. I don't see why a modern brushless motor wouldn't last 100k or more. I've only seen them break on the endless-sphere forums when people over-volt the crap out of them with larger than recommended controllers! Short of that, the bearings are the only real contact points in the motor. You also greatly simplify the transmission, as electric motors are most efficient @ high rpms. I'd love to find a dirt bike frame and convert it over to electric, but I don't have the funds or the time for such a thing! The guys over here however, do. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=bb94f4221f1948858d41e04e9bdffc3a

I've enjoyed a few Sierra Nevada Torpedo's. It's the first time I've had anything to drink in over a week. But what day is more deserving of alcohol than election day? I know who won the presidential spot, but what I'm really hoping for is the denial of Prop's 1, 2 & 3 here in Idaho.

I put the rancho version on my truck after replacing all the steering components up front. My only complaint (as it is very beefy) is having to grind off the factory tab on the centerlink.

Ha, I hope it's getting closer. I'm being blessed with 60-70 degree sunny days lately. My problem is all of my classes deciding to ramp up as the semester starts it's downward slope! I do need to run to the hardware store/junk yards and find some bolts to hold the clutch assembly to the fly wheel. Also noticed that the T-case uses a few different bolts with the MT's due to differences in the transmission sides. I

Ouch on the tie rod ends! Have you heard of rockauto.com? They offer discounts to NPORA members so it might save you a buck in the future. There is also a forum member here that works at a Nissan parts dealer, you can find his info in the services(?) sectiion. I bet new tension rod bushings (have a welder on hand when you do those, just incase the bearing cups need repaired), new idler (Plus a brace if you want to beef it up) and a centerlink would tighten everything right up. The stock CL's on these trucks use ball joints on the ends, as I'm sure you've seen. They don't last near as long as they should, and that's why a lot of people update if they plan to (gently) abuse their rigs. I'm currently catching a lot of flak for spending repair money on my rig too. At the end of the day though I own it outright and I'd rather fix it than scrap it.

I believe the 3 gauge pods being ordered in this thread hold 3 standard 2 &1/16" gauges.

X2 On the strut/tension rods. In my experience they look worse on the inside than the outside. On the steering, did you replace the centerlink and tie-rod ends too? Since if those are still original, it might explain the play in your steering wheel. The stock steering on these trucks isn't very robust, but you don't often hear of the box wearing out first. I know my steering was sloopy up until I replaced the tie rod ends, adjusters, upgraded my centerlink & replaced the other front end components you just did. Now it's tight enough that my friend with a worn out toyota thinks my truck responds to quickly lol.

^ Just one kilometer on those tires is pushing it! Good work though! I'm always envious of these threads that show so much getting done and not the pain of working on a old truck!

Well thought I'd post a quick update. Got the flywheel and my order from Alkorail in this week. However I recieved a new rear main bearing, and not a seal. I'm in the process of sending that back and getting the seal, but it looks like I may not have that until the end of this next week. I have other stuff to do on the truck, but I'm stuck on replacing the transmission until that seal arrives. The good news is the bearing cost the $60. The seal is less than $30.

Well I would guess if you could get the torque converter bolted up the flex plate, then it might not matter so much? Either way, I'm pretty sure that's a replacement engine, so whoever installed it probably didn't realize there is an AT version of a pilot bearing. I'm pretty certain I just don't have the AT one, since looking at Beastpath's pics, it looks the same as mine. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23822-starting-my-at-to-mt-swap/page__hl__swap__st__40 Either way, I have a new pilot bushing to put in there! Well, haven't had a chance to go check out the brake lines yet. Although I seem to remember using a 10mm on the line flares, and not 12 like what oreilly's is selling. O'wells. The flywheel will be here next Thursday, so hopefully the rear main seal and whatnot arrive prior to that so I can get this truck operational for the first time since July.

I do have an oreilly's down the street. I found metric brake lines (Since the clutch system uses brake fluid) in M12 on there though. http://m.oreillyauto...un_jtt_redirect I'll give them a visit tomorrow. I still have one of the lines out on my truck (the one that runs from the dampner to the frame block) to verify. Does anyone know the size of the flares on our trucks off hand?

Not bad at all! When I was the unfortunate owner of a Mark 4 VW, shops were quoting $1200 or more for that same job. Of course I changed it myself for less than $300, but it still took a weekend of my time.