Vsicks Pathy
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Posts posted by Vsicks Pathy
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the problem that arises with this kit is that your torsion bars sit lower and you can have clearance issues. i don't know if this problem has been addressed yet.
my 2 cents.
Given the larger tyres that can now be put on the TB's are not an issue.
That kit is the best offered on the market today. However, it can not hope to get past the short comings of the Nissan front end. It will last longer than a Calmini lift kit though.
Next should be some SLR products just to keep everything in check.
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Pardon me for not being more specific -- the 18 miles encompasses some 200 odd corners -- some of them gradual currves, some of them sharp switchbacks.
Heres a sample about a mile or two before the ski resort -- elevation is roughly 5500 feet. Props to google maps for the image.
So after your wheel locked up.................. What!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit-
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Well for the record the axel was making noise and it wasn't an entirely straight line -- bogus basin road is NOT a straight road. Some 200 odd curves in an 18mile stretch.
Curves. You said it right there. Not sharp corners, not tight bends even but curves. -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit- -thnkboutit-
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I am ~2000 miles over now.
If you fear they will not fix it find another Pathy (wreckers?) with lower milage and swap the speedo over.
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That's the best home made snorkle I have seen if that's any consolation.
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A bad joint on the front CAN affect steering. If the joint is really knackered, it will not flex as easily as the other side. To the point that if it was rusted up and seized, it could not flex to other side and prevent the axle shaft from rotating. Locking the wheel is obviously very unlikely - the joint would come apart first.
BUT - on a really low traction surface (like ICE and SNOW), the one knackered joint could be intermittently and momentarily binding up without quite exploding. ANd what happens when it binds? That wheel slows down, and then the differential accelerates the other wheel...
If one front wheel is momentarily slowing down while the other is accelerating, do you think that could cause funny steering?
How dod you propose that the axle binds then unbinds whilst drive down the road without making any noise or whilst driving in a straight line?
************
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the TM lift comes with coil spacers and UCA drop brackets, correct?
the only thing i would worry about is CV angles
I think it also comes with (should anyway) drop down brackets for the diff too.
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Turns out its a head gasket and the timing chain..... huge bummer...time like these i wish i was rich lol
That'll do it too.
Good luck with the fix.
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I honestly can not for the life of me think anything than utter dismay at what has been said here.
I know we all need to learn but seriously! Some of you guys are old school and the reason for the car wandering is what? FFS!!!!!!! A CV joint??????????????????????
For christ sake. How on Earth does a CV joint effect steering? Think about it FFS!
I might take a beak from this site for a while. No, after seeing the pathetic replies here... I need a break!
See you all in a week or two. This is the straw that broke the Camel's back. Call me Camel.
Oh, and in case you did not know. The boot being worn is not a big issue in the scheme of things. Mine were f*cked for nearly two years (hard 4wding too) and were never an issue in that time. I am not saying that the CV's did not suffer, they did not break or fail in that time!
You want to know what sent me over the edge? This...................
I cannot explain the steering problem unless you also toasted the steering box too.I honestly wander how man ever got to the moon with stuff like that.
P.S.
Derograte, you are excluded from my scathing, but well deserved attack.
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So I was driving the twisty road to the ski hill today. I got high enough (heh) into the snow pack and put it into 4HI. Shortly after that I noticed my steering wheel was wandering more than usual, even when travling in a straight line. Rolled down the PS window and I could here a "thwack" sound every few seconds. I put it back into 2wd then and things seemed to go back to normal.
Got to the parking lot and took a peek at the undercarriage. Sure enough the PS boot where the axel meets the diff is nearly gone. The DS looked fine.
So at the very least I'm looking at replacing a boot, if not much much more. Any ideas on how much more, or how difficult this is going to be to fix?
And you think that little bit of rubber is making your car wander?
I hear a cash register ringing its heart out as you fork out the $$$$ to fix your stuffed front end steering components.
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Hve you put them in yet?
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I am guessing that you talking about the Superlift arms?
If soo....
Then the Rough Country arms that we have been talking about (less expensive but price going up, trying to get a deal, etc.) are actually rebranded Superlift arms. They are, other than in name and color, the same items
Or were you referring to something else?
:cool2:
You must admit that this thread was hopless without pics.
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No spark getting to a cyl? Possible cause could be a lead has come off.
Check all your leads and plugs for spark I guess. That is what I'd look at first anyway.
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code 22 steveo, i will have a think about it tonite
do you think its a wiring issue?
ive only ever had one engine code twice, and that was basically due to running rich.
you used a vn manual computer didnt you?
Good morning Steve.
I can't remember if it was a VN or a VP computer. I think it was VP computer with a VN loom but I am not sure.
Not a wiring issue. Not with the TLC I put into it anyway.
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If you want upper wishbones (UCA's) you can't go past this mob. The best on the market in my opinion.
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/nissan_early.htm
I absolutly thrashed the life out of mt Pathy with these on and they were still perfect when I removed them. Kremmen is the proud new owner now, and he should get many hassel free years out of them too.
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ok it all makes sense now but for now i'm gonna put the front nismo one on.. i don't have the rear one on though... i havn't had it for a while now... if i plan on going for a big weekend i'll take off the front one for the weekend.. not like it's hard to do...
thnks for the explanations
It's not hard to do but it is a pain in the arse all the same.
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Just when you think a Pathfinder can't get any uglier, they show us this? :oops:
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If nothing is truly hurt, may I be the first to suggest a strategically placed piece or black electical tape to cover the light on your dash? :X
Or remove the bulb.
but then I will miss a new problem that may arise.
I will go through each possible problem untill I find it now. Starting with the cheapest of course.
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what code(s) are you getting?
It is not a Pathy code, it is a Commodore code. The code is 22 it can be anything from the throttle position sender to the temp sender, with everything in between including the ECU. That's why I went to a mechanic.
Mind you, the car is not effected in anyway by the fault. Just 3 years of looking at it starts to get anoying.
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no no no i know it does i'm just saying that if a sway bar limits flexing then y can a solid axle flex so well??
maybe i'm not making sense
Sorry, I should not have been so short with you. I assumed that people would know what a sway bar (aka stabilizer bar) was, and its function.
A live axle is connected to your car via moving parts. Shockers, springs, panhard rod and radius arms. All of these things alow movement.
What Simon said is correct. A sway bar is a fairly rigid thing. It connects to your axle and to the chassis to minimises movement, to stop flex. It will flex a little bit but not too much. If I was to put a sway bay on the front, or even the rear of my car, then I would lose valuable travel in my suspension.
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A new car.
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I had my Pathy tuned today. First time in about 3 years, and the only reason I was getting it done is because the stupid engine check light has been on for all that time. I had already done the oil, oil filter, plugs and leads etc. I go to pick up the Pathy ($208 later, $66 was a surcharge because it is a 4x4???) and the mechanic tells me that my Pathy (mechanically) is in excellent condition. I looked at his bill and I still can't think how it could have cost that much. $36 to top up the oils alone?? Never again will I subject myself to such abuse!
Anyway, driving around this afternoon and guess what comes on again, as usual, when the car gets to normal running temp? The check light.
I went to a mechanic to see what the problem was, so he could put his gadget on it and it could tell him what was what. In short, to have that very thing fixed . So I went back to see him. Guess how he checked the code? The same way I had checked it. Yep, by earthing a f*cking wire and reading the code. I KNOW WHAT THE CODE IS! I just wanted the actual problem to be pin pointed. There a 5 options as to what the problem could be when you refer to the code. $208 spent and I am no closer to what the cause is. NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!!
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x terra all the way
Agreed. A far more capable car than the R50 Pathy could ever hope to be. In fact, and it has been said before, the X is more Pathy than the R50, period! If you want to soft road, get the Pathy. If you want to off road, get the X.
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I will do two short lists of the most things I have damaged in one shot.
1st event was a fairly quick stop after hitting a stump.
Hit the stump (avoiding one thing to hit another) smack bang on the pitman arm at about 30~40 kph.
Broken....
Steering box. ($400 second hand)
Bent....
Tie rod. (Both)
Idler arm
Chassis.
Other damage....
Drag link.
NOTE: The the only reason I included this event was because of the cost to replace the steering box. If the steering box was not broken it would have been a normal outing.
2nd event was a bad landing over a jump.
Broken....
Driving lights (Both)
R/H head light
Coner light. (Both)
Steering column. (collasped)
Spot welds.
Bent....
R and L front guards.
R/H tie rod.
Radiator support panel.
Other damage from this one event....
Drag link.
Broken battery clamp. (Battery moves into the power steering pully.)
Power steering pully rips apart battery spewing acid everywhere.
Acid chewed through my belt tensioner. (was resin now is steel).
Acid chewed through my drive belt.
Acid ate away my flexy conduit. (wires ran through it)
Acid ate away my paint on the inner guard, steering box, engine mount, power steering pully, rocker covers, hood, after market UCA and chassis.
I think it was easier just to have two event lists otherwise we'd be here all day.
New Pictures
in General Forums
Posted
Your funny Justin.
I was not going to mention the lack of gap guards to conceal the body lift or the need for larger tyres to fill in the gap that the body lift made or that the sliders are sitting way too low now, and because of the formentioned, the Pathy looks like sh!t. I was just going pick out the best feature and stay positive. The fact is, it is the 2nd best looking home made snorkel I have seen (goerdie 4x4 is better). I did not say that it looked good, I think a different top hat might correct that. But there are lessons here for others to learn from. If you are going to do a cheapy snorkle, that is the way to do it. It does not offend the eye.
As for the BL without upsizing the tyres, I have been there and done that too.
Get those 33's on asap. As usaual, I just call a spade a spade. Sometimes it get me in trouble though? 