Vsicks Pathy
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Posts posted by Vsicks Pathy
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As 88 said.
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*Gets out a compass*
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Throttle body spacers do work. It's just you have to alter evey other thing too.
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Have you had the front end aligned?
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The sway bar (rear) runs along the underside of the axle housing (the thing that the wheels bolt to) and is linked to the chassis by a metal rod on both sides. It looks sorta like this I__I from underneath . It will not be the cause of your car swaying. A highly unlikely cause could be your panhard rod bushings. The panhard also bolts to the axle housing. It is at the very back of the housing and also bolts to the chassis via a (welded) drop down bracket.
It will more likely be one or more of these steering components......... your drag link (front), idler arm (front) or your tie rod ends (also front). Best you take it to get looked at before you come off the road somewhere. If anyone of those components a worn it can make driving very interesting. If two or more of these components are worn it will make driving very dangerous indeed.
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There are plenty of examples... the 300zx. The (au) Ford Falcon and Fairlanes would wiegh close to if not over as would the Commodores.
The Pathfinder is not what you'd call a large car by any stretch.
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#1, it's not a car. It's a truck. Drive it as such. It weighs just over four thousand pounds. No car since the 70's has weighed that much. Is it any wonder it sways when you have no swaybars?
#2, Calmini's not known for their problem-free designs. You oughta see how many people with XTerras and Frontiers are having terrible problems with their steering kits. The idler arm bushings wear out and then Calmini makes everybody buy new ones, only to have them get sloppy again...
You need a truck licence to drive a truck. If it is driven with a car licence it can't be a truck. I have a truck licence so know the difference between a truck and a car. Besides that, my car is regestered as a wagon, no mention of it being a truck and no sign of the excess in rego fees that are associated with owning a truck anywhere to be seen.
Having said that, it was flouted awhile back, and still comes up from time to time, that drivers of 4wds should have a special licence to drive on the road. As to why, I don't know. I think it was supposed to stop people backing over small kids. That was kicked in the arse when it was prooved that normal sedans are just as hard to see out of the rear. Some were in fact harder to see out of.
At least you agree that it isn't a racing car and should not be driven like one.
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diving on the freeway w/o the bar is suicide.. this car is my daily driver so.. basically..
If that's the case then alot of people on this board, as well as others, should be dead. For most people their Pathies are daily drivers.
Adjust you driving style to suit the little bit of extra boby roll you might get. Do not swerve heavily when you change lanes on the freeway. Do it how the law says you must; ease into the next lane. It is not a racing car after all.
Given how far you have your TB's cranked, I am supprised you even noticed to sway bar missing.
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I think it has more to do with protecting the insides of the transfer case.
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Can you make the pics a little larger in the future. I had trouble seeing that mosquito just under the L/H head light. That is what we were looking at isn't it?
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I use that combo (15x10) and with the steering upgrade it works great. No wobble, no shake, nuthin.
Steering upgrade is the key to your worry free travels. Without it, big problems.
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yea its the 1 with the spaded type connector...and i know it goes to the solenoid but i think i might have broken the tab off that it connected to b/c i dont remember it being hard to find last time i had it all unhooked and went to hook it back up....so if i know about where it goes and can locate where it broke off (if thats the case) i'll get out a soldering iron and see what happens...if not im while im scrounging for the windshield im gonna take a pic of the 87 and 88 they ahve in the yard and see if i can figure it out...its just turned into a PITA...im too close for all this stuff to be going wrong
and i had every1 and their brother calling me cuze mom doesnt pay attention and i was like well the way my luck is going the motor will end up smoking or something and she interperted that as the truck runs but smokes so every1 was like man i heard u got the truck going heard it smokes that sucks....i was like WTF mom get the story strait
as soon as i get the waterpump tomorrow and figure out where that wire goes she should with a big ole cross of the fingers crank up
im thinking about video taping the crankup since it can go really good or really bad and either way might be a moment in history
Take a step away from the Pathy for a day. Just do not think about it at all in that time. It is amazing how such a short break can give you a new perspective.
I had a similar experience when I did the live axle, so did sw (Steve) I think. The closer to the finish the less patience you get for some reason and silly errors are easy to make.
Having said that, the broken terminal should be staring you in the face. It will be close to the outer edge of the soleniod, either at the bottom or furtherest away from the donk (I can't remember).
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I towed a 36 foot caravan when my Pathy had only 4 cyls. Never got it out of third gear and 80 kph (50 mph) was the absolute max, and that was down hill. I towed that sucker about 150 ks for a mate and it went through a tank of juice in the process.
Your boat should be a little more wind resistant and not as heavy either. You should be able to tow it but the cost will be high.
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Very good point.
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Especially with the aforementioned oxy/ace fire...
They will tap out with a hammer.
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I would have just said:
Sway Bar: a bar that restricts flex, but not in Spolar93's application
Thats exactly what I was thinking.
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i got those in the ProComp e3000 flavor, and am running them right now, and get some pretty nice flex in the back, even with my rear sway bar still on
Never heard anyone say that before.
It has been so long.... Can someone remind me what a sway bar is and does?
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Thanks -- but the glovebox doesn't stay empty -- I've got the standard mess of registration/insurance papers, pens, lighters etc to go back in there. Just couldn't think of a better spot to put the relays and fuse block
I even got my ECU in there but not on the glove box?
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P.S.
Bushes are easy to get out.
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Yeah, thats what I figured. Has any one done them before at all? I got the new ones today, and it looks like they will have to be pressed in, but I am hoping that a bit of heat and a BFH will get them in. Any info on the process would be swell.
I can not give you a direct comparison to the Pathy lowers. I can however give you a couple of tips that might apply from what I have done in the past on other cars.
Things to have before you start.....
1. A socket large enough to act as your punch. This will let you drive the bush in evenly It is prefered that you have a bush flange tool because a socket can damage the flange on the bush.
2. A vice.
3. A soft hammer.
4. And most importantly if this is you first time........ And a swear jar and understanding nieghbours. sssh
Put your new bushes in the freezer for about an hour before you start, this will shrink them down a little. Take them out as you need them. Do not attempt to do the bushes without a vice or without a tool (socket) to drive the bush in with. Be very careful not to bend the control arms, they will bend very easily when trying to get them in....... You will have to manoeuver the control arms several times so as not to damage anything. eg. When driving the bush through the outer, you want the outer only to be supported. When you start driving into the inner, you need the inner to be supported. It is a balacing job and it is tricky.
Note: No oxy was mentioned in required tools. Do not use heat to do this job.
A better idea is to actually take them to a suspension place and have them do it for you. It sould only cost a couple of dollars. Ask if you can watch. A picture after all tells a thousand words.
There is no shame in letting someone else do THIS job. It looks easy but it is not.
If you choose to do the task yourself,
and good luck. -
and the saga continues...does any1 know where the post is for the single wire i've got the cable from the battery and the plug hooked up but i have a 3rd wire that i know had a pole to hook to...well i cant remember/find it and im guessing it broke off or something if some1 has a pic of their starter that would be awsome so i could try and see where it goes...
hopefully tomorrow will be the final day but highly doubt it cuze things just seem to keep on getting worse and not going the right way
You should only have two wires that run to the starter, excluding the Earth wire that is there permanently. One should be a heavy (red) wire from the battery and it will be a nut down job. The other, a smaller gauge (mines purple) wire that will have a female spade terminal from the ignition that will slide on. All connect to the soleniod part of the starter. The starter has two threaded poles (Earth and positive) and one male spade terminal.
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They are pretty suprising off road even when close to stock. The wheel arch on the quarter panel is a litle rough but other than that, not bad at all.
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Keep doing what your doing. The dash will be red all the way through so there is no chance of you getting lighter spots.
You are using a mild detergent aren't you?
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Much better man.
calmini steering with front sway bar
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
So your rear end doesn't flex then? -thnkboutit-