Vsicks Pathy
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Posts posted by Vsicks Pathy
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It seems to me that by lifting the front end on our trucks, you do nothing to increase total travel.....So, it seems that a stock length shock would work fine in the front. Also, it might help (very slightly) to keep from overflexing, and possibly blowing up a CV.....
Maybe I'm way off, but that's how I see it.....someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
I would love to correct you Simon but unfortunately you are correct.
For ever inch you crank up the TB's you lose an inch in downward travel. The stock shocks travel the whole (nothing to brag about) spectrum of the suspension plane.
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i was being facetious..canadians got a conservative gov now; looks to be about as right as ours.. seems they want to support US in the worldly endeavors. just thought you might also think that US played there.. very similar results to latest iraqi elections, coalition government and all.
After so many years in power change is expected. The new guys in town can not Govern in their own right. They did not get enough of the primary vote. They will have to have a coalition so it still might just work out for the better.
As for the Iraqi elections, that's one joke that will come back and haunt some.
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so, do you think US meddled up north too? http://apnews.excite.com/article/20060124/D8FAQDAG4.html
I could not fot the life of me see where it was reported that the US Government supplied money to or supported one side against the other in that artical?
So my question is..... did they?
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Perhaps this is how DMS guy jumped to the 'Hillary for war' conclusion.
http://www.antiwar.com/justin/?articleid=8428
DSM guy leans (or should I say lays) right, the author of that peice leans left. It is amazing how they came to the same conclusion.
It is a good read anyway.
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This should whet your appetite to know more mz.
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Hillary Clinton is a fence sitter and can't make up her mind on the Iran issue. She never said anything about wanting a war or going to war with Iran. What DMS guy said was just another one of his lies. I hope the US does push into Iran though. The sooner WW111 starts, the better. It will be on their own this time though. How is the stock market perfoming today?? No one else trusts what comes out of the White House anymore and they can't get support for an Iranian attack.
You are a little quite on the US spy ship question mz?
Do you like the free elections in Palestine that the US Government is interfering in? Makes amock of Iraq doesn't it! Yes good old 'W' is giving finantual support to the incumbents. What a f*cking joke!
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This is what she actually said....
"I believe that we lost critical time in dealing with Iran because the White House chose to downplay the threats and to outsource the negotiations. I don't believe you face threats like Iran or North Korea by outsourcing it to others and standing on the sidelines. But let's be clear about the threat we face now: A nuclear Iran is a danger to Israel, to its neighbors and beyond. The regime's pro-terrorist, anti-American and anti-Israel rhetoric only underscores the urgency of the threat it poses. U.S. policy must be clear and unequivocal. We cannot and should not — must not — permit Iran to build or acquire nuclear weapons. In order to prevent that from occurring, we must have more support vigorously and publicly expressed by China and Russia, and we must move as quickly as feasible for sanctions in the United Nations. And we cannot take any option off the table in sending a clear message to the current leadership of Iran — that they will not be permitted to acquire nuclear weapons."
Though it is disheartening and worrying, she did not actually say what DMS guy said she said. No need for a link to it, it is every where. No half truths either.
A good read.......... Just a touch of blow back for Hillary. Well, you do reap what you sow after all.
http://www.freepress.org/columns/display/1/2006/1304
Bill Clintons thoughts on the Middle East... This was about a year ago and the opening statement is a pisser. It certainly puts DMS guy's assertions to bed. Remember when he wrote this little beauty? "the common people HATED us because of what we had done in teh past. we would go into a coutnry, liberate them". I still get a good laugh from that one. And not because of the spelling!
http://www.larouchepub.com/other/interview...inton_rose.html
Did you look into the US ship being attacked in 1967? Your thoughts?
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Shame on you mz for posting up things like this. Shame! Not one ounce of BS in there mz? Come come!
I read what Hillary Clinton said with regard to Iran. You are correct, no war mongering at all. Just pressure followed by more pressure. It is on the net and there for all to see. I would put a link in here but no one would look at it. Correction, some would look at it but just ignor it. For some odd reason the truth doesn't matter here? I was actually more concerned about her attitude toward Palestine.. It shows that she too just does not care about the unlawful occupation of Israel onto and into Palestinian lands, not to mention the terrorist activities that are thrust upon the Palestinian people by the Israelis. I mean the whole world gets it, but she too doesn't? You know that Israel is in breach of well over 200 UN resolutions, including nukes and nothing is ever done. We all just sit back and cop it. I bet you did not know that Israel attacked an unarmed American spy ship in 1967 though did you? Look it up. The year and Israel are the only clues for you.
Now back to why this thread is here........
I just don't know why some people are compelled to post blatant lies, like the post that was removed recently, to name just one example of many and supposedly "moved temporarily to the Moderator's Forum for discussion". I do hope that it is put back asap because some of the things that were claimed in that post need to be addressed as well as some of the replies.
I will take little sips of air untill it is back and open to discussion?
sip.
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Whoever is the author of the article, must be one of the great critics as he/she has not offered any intelectual input from themselves, except their ability to type.
The author appears to be the type that should their child come home with 99.9% on his report, he would ask the youngster why did he not score 100%!!)
Well you seem to be a lot smarter than the author. Why don't you post up the facts as you see them? Sorry, I know I should not use the term "facts" when it comes to politics on this board. Just feel free to distrort bend and ignor the facts like DSM guy, vengeful, k9sar and jj do. You can post up any old lie, call it truth, then remove the lies you just posted up like they do. It seems to work a treat. I call it slander and run.
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well, i did the 3" BL from AC today on my 1991 SE 4x4. here are some additional observations or differences from some of the main writeups here.
#1 the little plastic tabs that cover 4 of the bolt heads (2 per side) are an utter BEAST to get off. i took a hammer and a screwdriver and annhilated mine. their glued to the body and to the bold heads..or at least they were in mine. nobody said what a bitch these are..so be prepared
#2 i did not have to replace my upper rad hose with a longer one...mine is just fine, but i will have to trim the lower due to the kink.
#3 after about 45 min of fiddling around and trying to line up the rear bolt holes...i noticed something. AC throws in the black bolts for....whatever years im not sure. i thought all 90-95 used the black rear bolts. this was not the case on my 91. i ended up using the 2nd pair of metric fine-thread bolts in the rear.
#4 yes, the rear most bolts are a b*tch. not only because their a pain to aline, but because some numbskull decided to stick a free floating nut up in the mount...but there is no way to get at or hold the nut for alighment. you have to be dead on..and its very frustrating. it took me longer to do the rear 2 than the entire other 8 combined.
#5 as far as the ps resivoir is concerned...i went ahead and just drilled new holes. the bracket needed to move a grand total of 1/2 inch..and i was too lazy (not to mention cheap) to go out and buy new hoses, new fluid, drain the resi, and bleed it.
#6 you need a BIG freakin jack...or at least alot of stuff you can put under your stocker. i ended up using 2 stockers per side..and had a 2x6, and 2 peices of a powerline crossarm (about 4x6 each), and a 2x4 on top, and i had the stockers maxed out at the dot. gave me JUST enough for 4 of the 5 mounts. the rear most bolts were a PITA and i had to lift up a bit myself to slide them in.
#7 get PLENTY of zip ties in all sizes. much of the stuff you removed wil not bolt back in its normal spot. and nobdy i know wnats to go around drilling new holes for everything. most of the stuff youll unbolt has something adjacent to it that you can tie it up to.
#8 when extending/installing the fuel filler and vent lines, soaking the hoses in hot water does wonders for tight fits. i got the extension peice and got the rather small tubing over the nipple without issue.
#9 i dont see why some writeups say you cant get the cover for the fuel line area to fit back right...unless mine is diff it just poped into place.
thats all i can think of for the moment..im pooped. if i encounter or think of any more ill be sure to post them. of course this was just my experience..yours may vary a bit. even tho its a bit of a PITA the results are WELL worth it. i never knew 3" could actually make such a difference. ill have pix up on sunday probably..tomorrow i have to spend the day finishing and mounting my new bumpers on and finish up the piddly stuff from the BL install. i highly reccomend this mod.
Seems you got the worlds hardest to install 3" body lift kit. Are you blaming the clintons for that yet?
Just joking. -
u gotta be kiddin me
Why would I joke about a thing like that? The Pathy corners look like sh!t on a HB.
Do you think they look good? Have a good look!
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v6, youre very blunt, but you get your point out there. i on the other hand like jp's bumper and neri's design as well. i think i'll try my hand in fab if i get the new pathy ('90).
I did say I liked the bumper. Just the Pathy corner lights don't match the rest of the car. I had to swallow a little bit of vomit when I saw it. Now if he could swap corners with a fellow here then the world would be good.
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steering wheel does not need to come out!
drop the two bolts that hold it up, then its a piece of cake.
good point about the fagile vents and the unbolting the fuse box.
I would never attempt to remove the dash with the steering wheel in place. Those two bolts are not the only thing holding up the column, the base plate also holds it up. It is not advisable to be pushing or forcing down the column either. You can damage the seal on the base plate to fire wall and also oval out the penatration through the plate that the column passes through.
At the end of the day, it will be his call as to how he gets the dash out of the car. For my money, the wheel comes off and the stalks are removed. It takes all of a few seconds to do and will save alot of time, not to mention effort and frustration with trying to manoeuvre the dash around to get it out.
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You do not have to remove the dash cluster for the dash to come out. The same goes for those horrid and fragile dash vents. They can stay in too.
You will also have to remove the plastic covers on the "A" pillars and peel back the rubbery protection trim to get the dash out proper.
There are also 2 bolts either end of the dash (underneath) that have to come out. You will also have to unbolt the fuse block and main dash loom (behind the fuses). I am unsure whether the US models have the same loom conection. All bolts are 10mm. Do not remove any screws that are covered by the metal trim just the 10mm bolts. Some are buggers to get a purchase on.
Also the steering wheel has to come off and the wiper and indicator stalks should be removed or you will not get the dash out past them.
The little vents on the sides of the dash have to come out to get the dash back in. They sort of open like a door kindathing.
I do remember writing a detailed essay about the dash removal some time ago but I can not find it. Once you are practiced in its removal it should only take you about 10 or 15 minutes to remove.
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That looks very similar to JPs bumper:
He has got pathfinder corners on and they look sh!t.
The bar on the otherhand looks good.
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Is there any reason to do this other than tidying up wiring? If I go through the trouble to relocate that I might as well move the other relay inside too.
He he -- Already thought of that -- would make the wiring it in all the easier too. That or just getting a dash mat -- but then again, whats the point in this thing ;-)
Heres a quick little diagram I drew up.....
I just got back for holidays, hence the late reply.
Where is the power to the switches in the diagram?
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Ya down your way.
Question about the patrol axles.
i was looking at one that was lifted with about 35s on in, LPG conversion when i was working in new Castle. the front axle is Knecked down right before the C going to the outer knuckles. Is this on all patrols and if so, is it a problem?
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Yes and no.
They are infact prefered and used by most hardcore 4wders because they are so strong.
You would break 10 jeep axles before the Nissan one would let go.
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Ok took the car in to get the SAS done. Then i get a call the next day saying that i cant be fixed.
And the reason for that is the chasis is snaped in half. They couldnt belive that
1. It didnt fall appart from me driving it
and 2. pedders never picked it up when they did thier report.
So now that is it. No more can be done for her. I now have to try and ring my insurance company and see if i can make a claim
That sux to the max!
How in the f*ck can a chasis break in half though? I can understand our cousins in the US having chasis problems given the salt used on snow covered roads but not here.
If your boby is good, see if you can score a chasis and put your body etc on it. It might be a cheaper fix again. Now wouldn't that be sweet!
But what jj said makes good sense too. Why can't they put in a new section to fix where it is broken? -
The sagging pedal syndrome? Yup, know that well. That's why I had to rebuild both MC's in my Pathy last year.
It indicates a leak somewhere. If it isn't leaking fluid out of a fitting or hose or cylinder under the car, it indicates a leak around the seal inside the MC. The fluid is passing around the seal from the high pressure side to the backside of the piston. And then it usually ends up seeping out between the M/C and vacuum booster and eating all the paint off the firewall and innner fender and frame rail (uh huh, it did...) or seeps along the pushrod and runs along the passenger side of the firewall and saturating the carpet and padding (as my clutch MC did last year).
Lucky for me, in both cases it was just worn out seals and the MC bores were not pitted at all. Which causes the same problems but costs a lot more to repair...
Yes, it was the old warn seal trick. I was going to put a kit through it but it was actually cheaper to get a new MC. A mate of mine had smashed his car and it had a brand new MC on it. I bought the whole car for $150 (smashed front and rear) took the MC of course and sold the rest for parts. I think from memory I made $800 odd on the car.
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alright ill have a look at it. there is still a crankshaft position sensor that is all screwed up but would that cause the engine to not start?
I agree with mz.
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after the bolts are torqued to yeild they shouldnt be reused...how many folks reuse these bolts...i know i have reused my head bolts which is a big no no in lots of peoples books and could cause me problems but i did that before i really knew about all that good stuff...
I had a look at my wifes manual. Not one mention of not reusing head bolts. However, and I have not looked it up yet, it will say not to reuse the fly wheel or ring gear bolts again.
It is a good point you make.
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This is the phrase commonly used in the US for the process of priming the master cylinder with fluid.
If the cylinder is completely dry, it can be quite difficult to get it to fill. You can fill up the reservoir, but pushing the pedal back and forth will rarely get the MC itself to suck fluid in. Pushing the pedal just compresses the air, but not enough to push air down the line. So when the pedal is released, the full volume of air is still there and there is no vacuum to suck the fluid in. So it is best to get the master cylinder itself at least partially filled with fluid before installing.
Bench bleeding devices use a one way valve in a hose.
Myself, I just clamped the entire assembly in a vice, filled the reservoir, and pushed the cylinder in with a no 3 screwdriver. While pushing in, I left the output ports open to let the air out. While letting the piston back out, I plugged the ports with my finger tips so air couldn't get back in. This was enough to develop enough vacuum to start sucking fluid into the cylinders from the reservoir. I had to pump my Nissan MC at least 50 times to get all the air out of both cylinders - one (I think it was the rear?) was really stubborn. Most MC's prime within 10 or 20 pumps.
My Izuzu MC sh!t itself. Peddel going to the floor all of the time but it would stop you. Just the longer your foot was on the peddle the closer to the floor it got. Weird stuff.
When I replace the MC with a new one I bolted it straight on and filled it up. The lines have to be bled anyway and it causes a vacume when you open up the nipple. Perhaps I too have been lucky when doing that sort of work. Even on build ups I have never given a second thought to the MC taking in fluid.
But it was good to know what bench bleeding is. I have seen it mentioned a few times here but never got around to asking.
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Not likely, I have some rather "creative" way's of breaking things loose myself
I use a breaker bar and rest it against the chasis. I remove the EFI relay and then turn her over. One loud bang and she is loose. If there is another loud bang then something went horribly wrong. I have been working with cars longer than I care to remember and it has not happened yet.
Is there an easy way?
in The Garage
Posted
No.