Bluewulf73
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Posts posted by Bluewulf73
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Aight,
So, I've been reading up on the dreaded clunk experienced by several pathy owners on this forum and tomorrow (becasue tonight is just too late, dark and wet outside) I will check the items typed in way below. But before I start mentioning those, here are my "symptoms" and what has been replaced within the last year.
Symptoms
Loud clunk on braking or accelerating (felt on left foot, false pedal)
Not-so-loud clunk on left/right turns (felt on right heel)
Not-so-lout clunk on sped bumps (felt faintly on right heel)
I have been getting this clunk since about 1/2 months ago, when I updated/upgraded my suspension.
Items replaced/added, front suspension:
Ball joints (1 year ago, OEM)
Anti-swaybar bushings (1 year ago, OEM)
Anti-swaybar links (1 year ago, OEM)
Struts, bearings, springs (1/2 month ago - KYB, OEM, OME)
Added missing link (1/2 month ago)
Added steel bash plate (1/2 month ago - Fleurys')
Added 1" spacers (1/2 month ago - Nx4)
Added Manual Hubs (4 days ago)
Items replaced/added, rear suspension:
Upper control arms (2 months ago, OEM)
Lower control arms (2 months ago, OEM)
Bumpstops (2 months ago, OEM)
Rear panhard bar bushings (2 months ago, OEM)
Rear shocks and springs (1/2 month ago Old Man Emu)
1" spring base spacer (1/2 month ago - Fleurys')
What I need to check:
Re-torque:
Bash Plate
Missing link
Check:
Balljoints
Halftshaft CV's - I know the passenger boot had pulled off slightly (see "Help, axleshaft binding") but the original one is in there right now and there has not been any noise or vibration coming from that shaft.
Anti-swaybar links (maybe a nut is loose - was not tightened properly after the lift?)
Anti-swaybar bushings (Maybe the extra stress has loosened one of the nuts on the retainers?)
Steering rack bushings (never changed, could be the culprit)
If I am missing anything, please let me know.
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So, not sure where my posts are but some of you might remember my posts on the issues I was having re: stalling and stumbling while at idle.
Brief recap:
Pathy started stumbling and stalling wihle at idle at intersections and red-lights.
- Changed Air FIlter
- Cleaned MAF
- Cleaned TB - add high idle to the stumbling and stalling
- Cleaned and lubed the AICV
- Changed plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor
No change so it is sent to Nissan Canada (stealership for repair) They told me it was the AICV
- Changed AICV - Issue still present, high idle is fixed
Dealership believes it is either the TPS or some highly unlikely, obscure item inside or under the IM (approximately $1500 fix)- TPS is cheapest so that was next on the list
- TPS is changed
Get truck back from stealership. No stalling for about five days. Then stumbling but not stalling about once per day, still at idle/intersections. Lately, with the weather warming up stumbling is more pronounced and has stalled about three times in the past two weeks. It stumbles almost to stalling about three times per day while at idle. Engine catches the stumbling and revs to around 2500 rpm then everything normalizes.
Throughout this entire ordeal, I have not had the engine light come on one single time.
Other symptoms I have noticed:
When I fill up it acts up for about half tank then it acts as good as new.
- Changed the fuel filter. Did not help
I am thinking it is either the fuel pump, or fuel pressure regulator. When the pathy starts stumbling, it feels the same as when a car stumbles as it is running out of fuel. Lately, the car hesitates as well, while accelerating.
Something else that makes me wonder...it is getting harder and harder to start the car and the bettery dies pretty quickly (took only 20 minutes for it to die with just some music on)
- Battery and starter was changed last year. I am wondering if going through those water crossings fouled up my alternator enough to cause these symptoms.
I am getting fed up with this issue as I just spent on new suspension and I can't go too far as I am affraid the car won't start once I am in the boonies...
Just wondering if any of you would care to point me in the right direction. I am thinking replacing the fuel pump simply because replacing the fuel pressure regulator would be difficult as I, once again, would have to remove the IM. (replacing the fuel pump should be easier, I think)
So, things I could replace that will, hoepfully make a difference:
Alternator (upgrade, perhaps?)
Fuel pump (found a good used one for $80)
fuel pressure regulator (PITA, POS,
)Distributor (i've read somewhere it was the culprit)
PCM (I've read elswhere this was found to be the culprit)
Any and all comments (other than get rid of it and get something else) are welcome.
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Probably safest to lift one side at a time. OEM jack is too narrow and yes, you risk ahving the truck tip to one side.
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Here...
Not video, but her blog. Makes for interesting reading...
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don't make us wait too long... 
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Boys, boys, boys - Sabrina (listening with me eyes) My friend just sent me the youtube link. A bit raunchy for this forum though...Ah the good old days...
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wow! thats amazing. i really need to save up some money and go travelling with my rig for a while. there are so many cool places that i would like to see.
Hear, hear...
Us BC guys should head south and pick up others along the way for a meet/overland journey.
Then we could 
and have more great stories to tell!Sorry, had cofee this morning...
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You would think they would have let her practice with a dummy grenade first!
James
What would be the point of that? She would never know the fear of nearly blowing herself up, and ensure she does it right the next time.
Failure is one's best friend...well, unless one's failure is catastrophic, then its just one proving Darwin's theory of evolution. 
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Incredible...
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I have manual hubs and only engage them off-road and in inclement weather. As my Pathy sits right now, were I to lock the front hubs there is no way I could drive it without eventually grenading the passenger CV.
I have no explanation as to why the passenger CV is over-extended, but it is. It's annoying, but I should be used to these types of things by now - it seems all my projects lately end up with some annoying quirk that doesn't have any explanation.
Bluewulf - hope you get 'er figured out!
I hear ya on the quirks. For me its been this darn axle and my freakin' home LAN. Router hates me. Nothing works proper when I want it to. Grrrrr.
On a bright note, found some time to install the manual hubs today. Even had enough time to make videos and take photos for a video write-up.
when done I'll post it. -
Awesome! The really put a beating to those trucks though...I'm surprised the LC didn't break anything, getting caught the way it did...
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I don't understand what could be causing this? I, like many here, have the AC 2" springs and the 1" NX4 top mount spacer. I have
neveryet to experience any issues, what so ever, with my CV's. I have done some real wheeling as well. I only engage my front hubs when I'm off road so, maybe that's the difference?I am hoping my manual hubs will make a difference...once Ihave time to get them in...
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Ok, so I removed my power antenna mast today and now I have a big hole; nothing for the replacement fixed antenna mast to hold on to...
and my little girl decided she would ride her bike over the old mast 
. So, if anyone with a replacement fixed mast can help by taking a photo of your set-up and how you managed to have the antenna mast stay put in the massive hole left by the now defunct powered mast, I would appreciate it greatly!Ugh...I tell ya, sometimes it is obvious where my kids got their "manos de caca"...
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So what you are saying is the only part of the base replaced is the silver/chrome part and antenna post?
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So to bring this back up from the dead I was at the jy today and there was a qx4 and pathfinder. Both 98s. So I decided to try swapping parts to see what worked. First off the corner lights thou different are interchangeable. Both fit on each other fenders and both fit with each other headlights. A pathy hood will fit the qx4 if the grill is out. The grill is the only thing that makes the hood different. Headlights will swap between both trucks as well. Hope this helps some people out.
So, if I am understanding you correctly, to do the swap, one would need to get:
Corner lights, headlights, grill and hood to fit the QX4 grill?
Thank for checking this out, BTW
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Danger Zone
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Went to the gunk yard trying to find a powered one, and I found a fixed, floppy one instead. I thinks it's off an XE model, so that's what I run now, I love it, none of the stupid up and down crap.
-Kyle
hey ferrariowner123,
Did you have a powered one previously?
Do you have any close-up and personal type photos of the transformation, or just the floppy antenna?
My antenna is acting up and I was thinking of replaceing it with the floppy one too but since the base for the powered one hangs off the edged of the fender, I dont know how it fits without leaving a drooping hole.
Thanks in advance.
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Ditto here. 1-2 rough, 2-3 slow, 3-OD smooth. Donwshifting is rough and hard...
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I read somewhere on someone's post (don't think it was this forum) that the bags got covered in grit and that combined with extreme flexing of the suspension heped ahnialtate them more quickly. I am sorry, I don't remember where I read that. I also don't remember if the person that posted aired them down a bit or kept them full.
Not sure what kid of wheeling you do but keep in mind that the stiffer your suspension, the less flex you are going to get and you will lose traction to one of the wheels. Especially imortant if you have no LSD in the rear.
Spend on a spring set. OME HD/MD or if you want to lift your truck AC 2" lift. If you really want to lift it, then get the SFD with WJ rear coils. All three options provide you with rear coils stiffer than what is in the truck OEM.
If you don't do heavy wheeling and tow lots, then they might be right for you.
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Took me a while but this is the number for the strut mount bearing for my 1998 pathfinder. I asume it fits at least 96 to 11-98 pathfinders.
Oops...tried to rotate the photo but it always comes out like this. Sorry.
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Wicked! Nice work; how long did that take you?
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All I use:
Blockheater, Synthetic 5W30, battery blanket, winter washer fluid. Keep a wary eye on window chips. There is nothing like ignoring a little chip which is fine in the cold but turns to a large crack the first time you crank the heat.
The biggest problem I have is with the washer fluid (not here, in the banana-belt, when I go for winter drives out to Banff, Edmonton or Calgary) the fluid freezes in the hoses. Especially to the rear window.
Also, in winter, warm the car up before driving. Keep extra washer fluid, oil, a shovel, blankets, candle(s) flashlight, a small bag of sand, salt or kitty litter and a cellphone charger.
Brother lives up in Fairbanks, AK and he added the oil pan cooler. When it gets really cold there, pretty much everyone on campus plugs their car in while at school/work.
Idea for our next get together ..
in Off-Topic
Posted · Edited by Bluewulf73
Ouch, accident in 5,4,3, - not waiting, damn, it happened.
I'd drive down to wherever to help build it and slide u guys off the roof. Not sure I'd try it meself though.