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Posts posted by WiredWrong
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Ive seen a few guys running with this type of set-up on a early 90's model.
Mainly at mud mountain, though I've only seen a few over near elbe hills.
Next time I see one of them I'll asked them to drop this topic a line.
I can tell you that, I've spent over 8k on my 91 pathy. (mad max the banana's out of it
) Only to watch it catch fire and burn down to a shell of what it once was.
If you doing a all leaf makes you happy, then do it. You can't put a price tag on happiness.
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I don't think I've seen someone Bondo a door shut before. Too bad, looks like it was a pretty clean truck before the rock. Do you know how knackered it is underneath? You might be able to hammer stuff out, replace a few things, and get the doors working well enough to use if Bubba didn't weld 'er up real good under all that putty.
There's no body lifting it, it's unibody, though you can do a subframe drop in the front. Unibody makes a chop top a little problematic but of course a cage would help with that.
This guy did kind of sketchy ragtop on a WD21, if you want to check that out.
I agree the bondo job was very laughable, but now you've seen it all.
sanded some of the bondo off, and found the only thing wrong with it, is center pillar. The pillar was bent inward at in slight angle.
I could take the doors off ... sand the doors off
and replace the center pillar. Then the problem would be fixed.
If I recall, oemautopartsandaccessories sells them for around 240ish.
ah yes, that was the guy! thanks.
If I did do something like that. I would do it right, or to safety standards.
Ill draw up some ideas and go from there.
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Been trying to sell this pathfinder since I got back from over seas. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5566057763.html
went from 2k ~ 600 and still no takers. At this point I might as well keep it and just make it a summer project truck.
Thoughts on what I should do to it ?
I was thinking, a body lift and chopping off the roof and wielding a roll cage in it
I remember a guy did something like this some years ago here. I can't seem to find that post to it though ?
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Did I miss some event or something while I was away ?
Forums seems deader then a
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every video I see of pathfinders the fuel tank is on E or near E
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Here you go; alittle video editing but the sound is 100% of my old pathfinder dual exhaust system
it's a automatic transmission with a heavy mod to transmission to get the rpm past 4k so
it may sound odd to those who don't know my mod work
[media=]
[/media] -
I agee with everyone here; sounds like a fart rocket/ rice burner
if you do; if you want my two cents do a stight pipe
Ill throw up a link if you want me to of me doing
a duel piple with 2.5 on them and the sound of it
but.... that got me into a -4 last time i posted it here
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8. The fun part starts ( from this point on this should be done inside NOT outdoors )
9. On the front of your dash you should have a twist knob ( adjusting your clock knob )
this knob has a tiny screw in it , unscrew and lift cab off as such
10. Push in tab for A - D you have to do this for both front and back
11. Now you removed the clear lid
12. Flip the cluster on its face and do the same to tabs A-B on the black part (both front and back)
13. you may need to pry some on the black part; your thumb works wonders for such
14. Now you removed the black part
ill add part two in a few days
Preview up part 2
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B.Cluster backround color change (night lights)
Things needed
1. phillips screwdriver 12'' or 6"
2. flat-nose pliers
3. precision screwdriver set
1. Remove screws from A-D
2. Place both hands under A and B like so and pulling 3''s out till the speedo disconnects from
the cluster you'll hear a light pop
3 Now push in and tilt till you can place you thumb on A.
4. now pull down on A. and let the cluster lay on the steering column
WARNING* be sure you remove the POS cable from your battery before touching wires
5. With your flat-nose pliers remove A-D most times you can remove them with your hands
but D. is a pain without pliers ( when removing the wires please note the circuit board is cheap
Plasic so if you can't remove A or C don't get mad and rage over it cause if you rip the circuit board
your sol and your going to have to buy a whole new one cluster
6. Do the same for A & B
7. All together you should have removed six main wires
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Time for a update;
This is going to be a bit scattered
but a how-to/overall etc.
A.Steering wheel removal
B.Cluster backround color change (night lights)
more to be added as I have time to write this stuff
up and edit pictures etc.
A : Steering wheel removal
Things needed
1. phillips screwdriver 12''
2. harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller
3. breaker bar
4.13-16mm sockets
1. Remove the horn cover
2. Remove the locking bolting holding the steering wheel to the steering column
3. Size the two screw holes for A & B (the bolts sould have came with the ( steering wheel puller )
4. Screw the rod into the main part of the puller.
5. Remove move the bolts from C. ; now put bolts in the main part of the puller B. ; screw into the holes in step 2
size 13mm socket (don't over tighten them) ; now tighten A. by hand till the steering wheel puller is tight with
the steering wheel; use the breaker bar with a 16mm socket on A. to break it free of the steering column
6. It should look like this now
7. Congrats you removed your steering wheel
Part two of this will be added when I get back to needing a steering wheel
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Yea... well found a 3.0 for $300 with less than 100k miles so im gunna have to figure it out soon. Cant live without my pathfinder for too long! lol
I love the way you think mate; I do think its worth dropping in a chevy 350 small block.
A lot of modifications can be done to it Vs. the 3.0; but on the other hand the gas guzzler would
not be on the daily drive list .
I would be dying to know what kind of intake manifold /carburetor combo you stick in it
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I just got done rewiring the "lighting switch/ASCD set switch, the wiper and washer switch"; (aka combination switch) moved them off the
steering column, now i've got a parasitic drain somewhere from point A to point B. Think it might be in the
cruise control wiring; might just remove the whole cruise control system, never use it anyrate.
Going to relocate the whole ignition cylinder system later on in the week so this helps alot nunya
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Does anyone know where I can find this book or the pdf. file ?
I'm doing massive rewiring of my whole system and i don't feel
like playing burn my truck down cause I wired something wrong (<---lol's at user name)
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Rewired and moved the lighting switch/ASCD set switch; the wiper and washer switch too
Kind of lame to have it on your steering column
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Mine hums. Not super loud, I've never noticed it when the engine's going, but when I turn the key to 'on' without starting the thing I hear a brief hum from the back as it pressurizes the lines.
I would have to agree with the lines are "pressurizing", I've removed about everything from the inside of my truck that is
not bolted down . So when you turn the key over to the "on position" I can hear my lines pressurizing"; before I crank it over .
this may not apply to you cause I dropped the main fuel tank and added a 1/4 fuel tank for weight reasons.
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Good Job Mate !
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I get about 16mpg on highways and about 10 in city; seems that my pathy is worse then my 79 dodge XD
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Was rewiring my truck, got mad after hot metal stuff fall on arm, hulk raged and ripped out the center
console
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yeah , BigMike did a write up on Replacing Your Starter on a 1987-95 . Its in the General Topics >
> The Garage > How-To's under replacing your stater on a 1987-95 . Good luck on the removal
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Mines the best of them all , flat black rattle can style
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So I have finally come around to replacing starter in my Path. The previous turns over fairly well, but when the outside temp reaches 95+ degrees, it just clicks with no ignition. After a few tries it will finally turn over.
I have followed all the steps in the Chiltons Manual, but have been unsuccessful in taking the old starter out. I searched but did not find anyone that posted a trick to removing it.
I've tried pulling it towards the front, but it's still wedged. Tried pulling it up, but to no avail. Tried pulling it out from the bottom, but still a no go.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
David
It's a tight squeeze , you should be able to remove it from the side . You removed the heat shield from the
exhaust headers right ? also try relocating some of the lines that may be in the way . I'm sure someone else will post
more ways to do it but this has worked for me a number of times in the past .
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Thats so BA man- taking a plan and putting it into action .
Going from cutting the roof off adding tubing and adding rag a top
takes some big gonads . Got to admire the time you put into it
Hope it handles the way you want it to on the dunes .
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thanks that sounds right
so my car doesn't have an amp right?
thats a no go on the amp .
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I just got a new project , looking to turn my 91 pathy into a ????
I thinking on turning it into a mix breed half 4x4 and half quarter mile type
like my 87 . I know some of you did not approve of my mods to my 87 so if your a
purest or troll please don't post I don't want drama .
Step 1 . I'm Removing all the dead weight from my rig IE (plastic ,seats
carpet , dash etc. ) How much dead weight is inside of a 91 pathy ?
I know I had one hell of a problem trying to find parts for my 87 pathfinder
.. they don't make alot of racing parts for pathfinders so you kind of have to
make them your self or know a friend with a machine shop XD
any mods or thoughtful ideas would be nice , pictures to be added later
So far I've removed 195lbs of dead weight , working on removing metal chunks anywhere I can
without compromising the whole thing falling part . Need to tube it so it's going to add +50lbs thinking pyro piping any thoughts ?
I thought about a 440 with a 4bbl etc. , after thinking about it for awhile ... would that not like
be ripping the heart out .
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Changed the differential seal, and kicked off some mud from the rear tire xD