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New skidplate for the Pathy


88pathoffroad
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Full front bellypan made from 3/8" thick aluminum plate with an access hole for the oilpan drainplug. It'll cover the front diff, oilpan, exhaust, tranny pan and transfer case fully. The stock skidplate will go on TOP of the new one, and the stock transfer case skidplate will be removed completely. Yeeee-ha.

 

Pics coming soon...

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Compared to the equivalent made of steel...steel=110-150 lbs. Alu=50 lbs. What do you think would be a problem with using alu as opposed to steel? It doesn't "slide" as well as steel? I call BS on that idea, after having used it on more than one thing for skid/sliding purposes.

 

Let me see here...3/8" is the equivalent of 9.525 mm. Sound good to you? ;)

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Actually i think its a good idea to use aluminium. However do not bolt this directly to steel, use an isolator such as silicone or rubber to seperate contact. The reason for this is Disimilar metal corrosion. You would be really suprised on how fast it will start to corode metal and aluminium don't get along. Or you can chemicaly anodize the skid plate. in the 80's toyota used aluminum rivets in the bed. they were recalled because the rivets pulled through the rusted out steel bed. In oregon you may not have much problem but if your in a corrosive environment. take more care.

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I'd like to see a pic myself... I have a source for ordering aluminum plate and have thought about doing this myself. I haven't heard any pricing on that plate from runnerman - If I knew how much that one was, I could decide whether I'd make my own or buy his...

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all i was reffering to was the strength aspect, you dont ever hear of rock sliders mad eout of aluminium do you?

I don't imagine steel sheeting would make much difference over aluminum in this case, where he's using thicker aluminum. And in any case, hopefully he'll be driving around or putting a tire over any obvious rocks that may come in contact with the skid plate area. The skid plate is a very nice "just in case." Sliders are made for more immediate contact, aren't they? I bet someone could fab up aluminum sliders if they wanted too, although they better have deep pockets. sly

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OK, finished! Thanks for the comments on dissimilar metals, 87Pathy, I used rubber spacers to keep the alu separate from the steel mounting points. I darn near forgot about that.

 

Flat 3/8" thick aluminum plate, 40 lbs verified weight. 2.5" hole cut for oilpan drainplug access, removed stock transfer case skidplate, retained the stock front skidplate with a few modifications to make it fit. Given the choice, I'd have made it about 6-8" longer to cover up the back end of the t-case, but I got this piece for free, so I'm not complaining. P...

 

skid1.jpg

 

skid2.jpg

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Looking good. Couldn't that lip where the 2 panels be a place where you'd catch or hang up on something? Just a thought. White paint?! Nah! Polish it up, then you could throw some mirrors under there when you're parked like the ricers and lowriders. :P

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Looking good. Couldn't that lip where the 2 panels be a place where you'd catch or hang up on something? Just a thought.

With all the other edges, lips and angularities under there, I'm pretty sure everything'll work itself out. I beveled the leading edge of the plate, too.

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