front wheel bearings

[MikeV]

Not sure how I managed that

 

yeah I do... never swap out bearings without swapping out races also.

didn't have a press handy so I opted to replace the bearings only.

 

Just an FYI for anyone else in the future!

 

Now I will do it right this time

[94extreme]

nah, i bet you didn't pack your bearing correctly as i have never exchanged any races on any of my vehicles over my lifetime but have replaced or at least repacked dozens of bearing w/o one issue.

[jj big shoe]

^^ I'll second that.

The only time I've replaced races is actually the last time I did the bearings on the Pathy. I was under the gun to finish the engine swap and had to replace the passenger CV boot before I put the diff back in. I kinda rushed it and didn't pack the bearing well so it bit the dust shortly after. I figured with the added heat and since the wheel was riding like this /---l I should get new races along with the bearings. No need for a press BTW, a soft punch and a hammer will pop 'em right out. Then line the old race on top of the new one and tap it in.

Edited July 2, 2008 by jj big shoe

[Simon]

I'm inclined to think your inner seal is probably shot. It's a $10-$15 part, and could save you a lot of hassles with bearing issues.

[Precise1]

Crap on all these other guys. IF you don't want to mess with it for a while and have the time(little) and tools(few), change the bearing races!!! Most people don't address bearing issues until they become evident, which is too late...

 

Wear is progressive and is rarely a uniform wear around the diameter. It is usually 'wear points' due to misloaded or shocked bearings that are spaced at bearing load points. This means high and low spots on the race as the bearings rotate, and guess what, it will beat the tar out of them!! Anyone who thinks otherwise, get your best .0001 indicator, set up a rigid stand, lock the wheel so NO movement is allowed and then rotate and measure the 'flatness' of the race. You would be suprised!! Worst case scenario, I can show you pictures of my universal joint needle bearing cups and races; they are friggin splined!!

It doesn't take much uneven wear in a race to totally compromise new bearings and who wants to do the job in another 6 months, hopefully before it catches you be suprise!! It's like replacing the thermostat/waterpump/etc when changing the timing belt. Do it all and do it right right so you don't have to for years. It's the same with bearing AND races. Unless you can measure the races well enough to determine they are good, replace them. I'm a machinist with all the tools and I don't measure them, I replace them.

Meh, who listens to me anyway..

 

B

 

Err, Simon has a good point, the bearings need to be sealed to last. Definitely check that out.