Kingman Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Hella yeah dude. I opened the ECU up to fix a burning out resistor and solder joint, and now it won't power up. Should have left it be until I get my new one. Oops. Come get your damn tires! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 How many resistors have you fried now? Or ecus. Lol. Those tires... I keep forgetting! I just gave it a wash and wiped down the inside. Dirrrrrtttty! I may post pics of the damage later.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 14, 2013 Share Posted July 14, 2013 A few. One was already bad from the get go, the next was a short in the factory harness so not my fault, the next had a resistor fry, and this one now with a different resistor. Its hard to find the problem because it takes over a year before the symptoms start, although I have no explanation for why it suddenly stopped powering up. I got another ECU but its for a turbo car, it powered up and started it. Not a Pathfinder, but I'm replacing the head gaskets on an '85 300zx with a VG33 at 15psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Just finished lower manifold, fuel rail, timing assembly, and valve covers. One more day and the 3.3 will be ready for the ladys truck. She is getting excited now! Should be finished the swap within a week now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Ordered the poly control arm and sway bar bushings last night online. My new power steering pump and front rotors will be here tomorrow, I picked up the new wheel bearings yesterday. After the bushings get here I'll have everything I need to rebuild the entire front end. New grassroots center link, tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, brake rotors, power steering pump, and all of the bushings. I can't wait for it to drive like new, but better! Also have the dropping resistors for the injectors to go with my new ECU coming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 I give up on poly bushings! Between the upper control are bushings and sway bar bushings my old truck with all new parts sounds like a squeaky old piece of crap! I guess they would be fine if I never went in water but that's what this truck is for. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Did you lube them? Can't be any worse than the noises mine makes now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Made more progress on my bomber skid... Boxing the inside edges of the louvers, adding recessed holes etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Checked my PS fluid and found milkshake on the bottom of the dipstick. I think water got in when I tried to pressure wash the oil (and then the orange cleaner my dad tried to use on the oil, while the engine was still hot) off the headers. I pulled out the little catch filter thing, the oil drained out of it, and the water/milkshake stayed inside! Cleaned it up and put it back in. The fluid looked perfect underneath it, so maybe I got lucky. The fluid level does look a little high though... maybe there's water at the bottom of the system. Advice? I also swapped my bear-blinding LED domelight for a smaller one, which means I have a big LED panel to mount somewhere (I'm thinking underhood light.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Water should boil off after a little bit of time spent at operating temperature. Maybe go on some long curvy roads to help get the fluid hotter. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 did a 3M headlight restore kit. looks good, was super easy. I'll find out tonight if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I replaced my cruise cancel switch rubber bumper. Just popped right in. Old one disintegrated after 13 years, not too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Fixed my lack of horn/power locks issue (fuse and a chaffed wire) and fixed the Rodin the hatch that connects the lock cylinder to the latch. I can finally use my key to unlock te hatch instead of rely on the power locks! (If my key worked the lock cylinder that is ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) I was going to make a how-to on rekeying pathfinder locks. When I bought mine the key only worked in the ignition and glovebox. I didn't even have a key to unlock the doors! Just keyless entry... so when the keyless entry failed I was forced to teach myself to locksmith! Now I have one key for everything and it only cost me 5$ in junkyard locks for parts... I should have enough pics to make a write up... anyone want one? Edited July 20, 2013 by Nefarious 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 I was going to make a how-to on rekeying pathfinder locks. When I bought mine the key only worked in the ignition and glovebox. I didn't even have a key to unlock the doors! Just keyless entry... so when the keyless entry failed I was forced to teach myself to locksmith! Now I have one key for everything and it only cost me 5$ in junkyard locks for parts... I should have enough pics to make a write up... anyone want one? Yes! I have a pretty good idea how it goes but seeing it done once and reading your input will make things smoother. I intend to have 1 key that works in both my Nissan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 20, 2013 Share Posted July 20, 2013 Right on, I will put something together tomorrow or Monday and post it up in the garage for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Today i installed a 110 amp alternator and began my bed liner paint job/blacked out look and i think it'll look sick when its done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyreb Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Also another new battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 21, 2013 Share Posted July 21, 2013 Did you lube them? Can't be any worse than the noises mine makes now. Yes I lubed them but my truck is always in water so it keeps washing the lube off I guess. I can spray them with some penetrating oil and keep them from squeaking for about a week then it comes back. Next time I'm going back with rubber. With the M/T tires it handles sloppy anyways. Poly bushing won't get that out! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 I was going to make a how-to on rekeying pathfinder locks. When I bought mine the key only worked in the ignition and glovebox. I didn't even have a key to unlock the doors! Just keyless entry... so when the keyless entry failed I was forced to teach myself to locksmith! Now I have one key for everything and it only cost me 5$ in junkyard locks for parts... I should have enough pics to make a write up... anyone want one? I think my issue is along the lines of the fact my Nissan key is worn a little more than my STI key (as the Nissan one will/did last time I checked work the hatch and that's the only lock the STI key don't currently work... I think), but a write up can be a useful thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 More work on the 3.3 today. Ran into an issue using Mr 510s crank adapter. The engine I pulled was from a 99 pathfinder and the vg33e on the r50 has the front mount oil filter housing. I knew I would have to weld an offset and extension to the alternator bracket but the r50 filter housing sticks out quite far from the oil pump which doesn't allow the alternator to clear the steering box once the belt is tight. After some research, a solution... I knew the xterra and frontier have a lower profile housing and that's obviously what Mr510 used but around here they are hard to find in the junkyard and they want $$$ for the parts. On the other hand, the vg30/33 in the mercury villagers and Nissan quest also have the front mount oil filter housing and they are even lower profile than the xterra and frontier housing! Score! So we went to Pickapart and picked one up for 10$ from a 98 villager. Spent the rest of the time extending and making the correct offset for the alternator bracket. It is all together now, just the upper plenum to go and this motor is ready to go in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Painted tire carrier with Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black and painted front bumper with bedliner 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) This is a pretty good how-to on re-keying the Nissan locks, it's a Pathfinder too ! This is the guide I used when I re-keyed all my locks on the pathfinder and Sentra. http://beergarage.com/PathRekey.aspx If anyone is interested in how to do the ignition I did the one on my Sentra, should be the same if not identical. The re-keying is the same from the glove box to the door locks to the ignition cylinder it's just different on how to get the actual cylinder out of the lock. Nissan is pretty easy to do as there are only 4 different wafers that are used. And each lock depending on what it is used for has a different amount of wafers based on how secure the lock needs to be, for example the ignition and doors use 8 wafers but the glove box lock if I recall correctly only uses 4. Also a tip for anyone thinking of doing the door locks, it is almost impossible without the right tools to remove the chrome face cap from the lock (the outer part) with out mangling it, it is also very hard to get it back on when your done, my tip is to go to a local locksmith and pick up the universal face caps, they have 4 tabs that get bent over instead of the OEM face cap where you have to bend the entire lip back over. I made a Nissan Re-keying kit with all the extra locks I picked up from the junkyard when I did mine, the plastic box contains compartments for the 4 separate wafers, the wafer springs, lock cylinders, outer lock bodies, etc. If I ever have to or get asked to do someone Else's I'm all set. My ignition lock post, was posted already: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30533-anatomy-of-a-nissan-ignition-lock-assembly/?hl=%2Banatomy+%2Bnissan+%2Bignition+%2Block Edited July 22, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIPPERR Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) A simple thing but significant, I got my wheels balanced! Its way better when the truck doesn't pull to the right or shake. Also checked the tire pressure with a half decent gauge. Road trip this weekend! Edited July 24, 2013 by JIPPERR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Put a new power steering pump in, flushed the system, and added an inline filter. Then wired in dropping resistors for the new ECU. Wouldn't start... checked to see if it was powering on and saw its stuck in diagnostic mode! When the guy socketed it for Nistune he took out the switch knob so I can't even return it to normal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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